by Michael Mascha
Flavor is the
complex integration of taste, smell and the tactile sensation food scientists
call “mouthfeel”. This integration of sensation happens in the brain as a result
of information relayed by sensors reporting taste, smell and tactile
information.
The oft-cited but
misleading "tongue map" showing large regional differences in sensitivity across
the human tongue is wrong. Taste buds are "skin-like" cells fairly evenly
distributed on the tongue. There
are thousands of odors humans can perceive. The perception of odors can occur
via the nose and the oral cavity while chewing. Mouthfeel is probably the least
understood and most neglected component of flavor. The crunchiness of a pickle;
the freshness of breads, the
resiliency of a gum drop; the firmness of jams and preserves; the spreadability
of butter, margarine and cheese; and the creaminess of puddings -- these are
just a few examples of texture and mouthfeel characteristics that make food
appealing and satisfying to consumers.
So when we talk
about how something "tastes," we are really referring to its flavor - as an
integrated sensation. (Taste + Smell + Mouthfeel =
Flavor)
What does this mean?
When describing the flavor of water the most important factor is the mouthfeel
generated by the size, amount and distribution of the bubbles or the absence of
it. The flavor of water is mainly determined by its mouthfeel and this should be
the main concern when comparing water, matching food with water or deciding on
the perfect stemware. This is very different then describing wine where the main
factors are taste and smell and temperature is the only mouthfeel component
(except sparkling wine).
We recently introduced the
FineWaters Balance
to help with the
description and categorization of flavor in water. The FWB describes the
“mouthfeel” of water based on the level of carbonization in five levels from
Still to Effervescent (Badoit, Voss, Highland spring, Hildon, ...), Light (Sole,
Galvanina, Ramlosa, Blu, ...), Classic (Appolinaris, Gerolsteiner, San
Pellegrino, ..) and bold (Perriere, Ty Nant, Calistoga, ... ). The FWB also
establishes a narrow range of temperatures that suits each level best in the
context of a fine dining experience (bold: 62°F /17°C, Classic: 60°F /16°C,
Light: 58°F /14°C, Effervescent: 56°F /13°C, Still: 54°F
/12°C).
The FWB is the
perfect tool for matching water and food. One of the prime joys of matching
water and food in a multiple course meal is being able to switch waters for each
course and developing a progression of waters to guide you through the meal.
This is a true experience and worth the effort. Drinking different water for
each course highlights the subtle difference in waters and the progression adds
enormously to the dining experience. If your favorite restaurant doesn't have
more than one choice of water - ask them to consider adding more options from
the FineWaters Balance. We believe there should be at least one water
representing each category of the FWB available in every fine restaurant.
Carbonation, or its absence, together with the size
amount and distribution of the bubbles are a significant contribution to the
mouthfeel of water and the prime focus on matching water and food. The FWB gives
you a good indication of the "mouthfeel" of the water and allows you to match it
with food. Subtle textures go better with Still or Light FWB whereas louder
textures are more suited to a Classic or Bold FWB designation.
There are no "wrongs" with matching water with food. Any water is fine with any
food. But paying attention to the subtle differentces, can yield additional
epicurean enjoyment.
Sometimes
contrasting the texture of the food allows for additional pleasures. Food that
comes to mind here is, for example, raw Oysters. This would go perfectly well
with a FWB Still but might be more enjoyable with a FWB Light that provides
additional sensation in the mouth. The same rule applies to "fusion"
sushi/sashimi dishes especially when they have some spiciness Other foods that
come to mind here are Hot & Spicy foods, Desserts, Sweets and Cheese. There
are many dishes and food that can benefit from a contrasting FWB water selection
and we would like to encourage you to experiment and find new
sensations.
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